Cañaveral to Carcaboso - (electric wheelchair style)

Very early start today as I was sharing a dormitory with an Italian who left early. The previous day she had walked over 30km in the hot sun carrying 4lts of water, not finishing till 3pm in 36° heat. 

My first 5km were up hill in the dark on very quiet roads. 

The sun rose to a mixed agricultural landscape. Initially of mature holm oaks with a grazed understory creating an almost country estate type landscape. I’ve not seen holm oak look like that before. 

Later travelling through a mainly flat plane of rich agricultural crops. Mostly vegetables, maize but also some olives and a few cows and sheep. I wish I had photos of this as the lush irrigated fields were so green after days of barren savana. I came across several older gents just sitting, admiring the morning. I make up stories about them to pass the time. 

Dramatic skies with occasional lightning and rumbles of thunder threatening from the west. Forecast says it will rain tonight with slightly cooler weather to follow 34°

Breakfast in the lovely small town of Galisteo where I understand you can still walk atop the old city walls made from big pebbles taken from the river below. I gave that a miss. 

A cluster of martins nest in arches in the wall.

On to Carcaboso that is not actually on the old Roman Vía de la Plata route but they pinched some Roman route markers to display next to the small church anyway.

The albergue looks lovely and I’m in, just not registered yet. Very clean and accessible. I needed to have a Spanish WhatsApp conversation to get the door code to enter. 

Cáceres to Cañaveral - (electric wheelchair style)

Started the morning with a very quiet 10km stretch into a small unremarkable town called Cesar de Cáceras. I was almost through the town when I clocked a busy early morning cafeteria. It was buzzing and efficient, good food, good coffee.

The terrain shifted to mainly dry grassland with a few cattle however, look who I found hiding in the bushes 😊 

2/3 of today’s route was downhill to a huge reservoir, think its the 2nd largest in Spain. I was hoping for a swim but the water didn't look inviting. There is part of a Roman bridge that was actually moved to this location when the reservoir was flooded.

Today’s route was 43km on small “C & B” roads. I was told there were locked gates that needed climbing. The Camino wandered and came back to the route I took.

Here is an example of the terrain I could manage, but may choose to avoid:

This is where it becomes impossible for me.

Not shown in the second photo is a roadside barrier at about 75cm high as well as the steps shown.

The remaining 1/3 of the journey was uphill. The countryside around Cañaveral is big hills and I think I start tomorrow with a long uphill run.

The albergue here is great, old stone building with a shaded terrace underneath. Simple with enough facilities and I can access and charge my wheels. The fig tree in the garden has ripe fruit but it’s a race with the birds for them though. Happy to share.

Cáceres photos 2 - (electric wheelchair style)

Photos of Cáceres I will build into my blog:

These last two images were taken in the Cáceres museum that features a medieval stone water cistern. The spooky dudes with the pointy hats are featured on a sheet of glass over an enormous deep dark well. 

Cáceres photos 1 - (electric wheelchair style)

Photos of Cáceres I will build into my blog:

Alcuécar to Cáceres- (electric wheelchair style)

The albergue in Alcuécar was one of those big old catholic convents or monasteries that is just hanging on. It is now also an old people’s home. 

Huge high ceilings on the lower levels, and everything still in place from the 1950’s and deserted. Definitely a hint of Adam’s family about it. I had a small 2nd story cell that had lovely views over the next days route.

Today’s route was through similar landscapes as the last couple of days, olives, vines and dry grasslands. I followed a mix of farm tracks, single file paths and hard shoulder on “B” roads. Threading my way through a path made for walkers is just hard work. I know it’s a pilgrimage and not a holiday but the stress of keeping going  through such difficult terrain isn’t worth it.

I research the following days route using a variety of aerial imagery, guidebooks and even YouTube videos. Where I consider the route unnecessarily difficult I plan alternatives. By choice I use farm tracks but hard shoulders on small roads work too. 

Cáceres is an ancient city and a UNESCO world heritage site. I understand scenes from The Game of Thrones were filmed there. I have decided to stay a second night giving me plenty of time to explore.

The steep winding streets in the old town are a maze of historic delights. I love a big gothic church but the smaller everyday architecture is also charming.

On route I met up with los Amigos - my cycling friends Migel and Ramon. We shared breakfast and coffee and agreed to meet in Cáceres and decided on an albergue. On arrival and after showers, we lunched under huge parasols in a street cafe.

I love this dish called “Migas Extremeñas”. It’s described as a rustic rural dish made from leftover bread, so breadcrumbs chickpeas chorizo corn served with a fried egg on top. It featured as part of  a Menú del día.
but is so filling you can take the rest of the meal as a take away for later. Lovely with Tinto de verano - summer wine (red wine with ice and lemonade).

Exploring Cáceres was extremely difficult on my wheels. The old citadel is on a steep hill and full of stairs. Because I kept having to backtrack and detour, I never actual go a grasp of the layout so was trying to navigate with Google maps. You choose different transport options in Google maps and walking takes me to steps, same with cycling. If I choose by car, the one way system takes me every which way and takes hours.

There are two additional posts containing additional images from Cáceres I will incorporate when I have better editing capability than my iPhone.

Mérida to Alcuécar - (electric wheelchair style)

This is the albergue in Mérida in evening light. It’s an old building constructed over a tributary of the main river and having the water flow beneath it. I was treated to a melon breakfast by the 3 Spanish cyclists I shared food with the previous evening.

After many detours caused by roadworks I found a way out of town heading north. 6km out is a waterbody that I think is a Roman reservoir. An early morning swim was surprisingly warm and with outside public showers it couldn’t have been better. 

I met my three cyclists again at Aljucén for breakfast. I understand I am the talk on the Camino, the Jersey man cruising north like lightning on his crazy wheels - great.

Still olive trees and vines but the landscape is definitely getting hillier. I think the route gains about 250m and we are now at altitude 480m.

Alcuécar has a pretty old centre built on a hill. I imagine it to be similar to those beautiful Tuscan hill-top villages but with less attractive urban edges. The albergue is the classic big old ex-monastery or convent that runs on a donation only basis without a set cost. It’s minimal but everything you need. I think I’m the only guest.

Torremejía to Mèrida - (electric wheelchair style)

Europe must have an enormous time zone from east to west. It’s June 9th here in Spain and the sun is rising just after 7:00 but doesn’t set till 21:50. This means one of the joys of the Camino is seeing daily sunrises.

Today’s landscapes were similar to yesterday’s with vineyards and olives. Less intensively farmed here and probably less water as there is very little green grass. Wonderful huge thistles though.

Today’s destination Mèrida sat on the horizon for many km however there was no sprawling urban suburbs, you just come across some trees and the river Guadian, then the Puente Romano de Mérida, the 792m long arched bridge.

Mérida is an ancient Roman town built on the river in 100BC. There are no end of buildings, theatres, aqueducts, homes, graves…

The amphitheater

Theatre

What is called ‘Circo’ or circus but which is where chariots used to race. It’s huge at 433m x 114m and can accommodate 30,000 spectators. Of course I did a lap of honour.

My favourites are the aqueducts that kept the city in water. Remnants of them span the city but they brought water from up to 75km away.

Development here must be a nightmare. There are buildings built on stilts to avoid destruction of the underlying archeology that seems to be everywhere.

A ticket for accessing all of these historic places was a mere €8. I spent hours exploring and will add more details in due course. I have additional photos to include but they will have to wait till I'm at a pc.

Zafra - Torremejía (electric wheelchair style)

The route today was olive trees and vineyards.

I have again leapfrogged stages covering 48km. 

I found some street art at last. The Camino Francés has loads of murals and sculpture but the Via de La Plata is a bit barren artistically. 

Down to 2 bars on the battery indicator but I did the last 25km at a faster pace.

The guide is disparaging about today’s journey. It talks about the “monotony of today’s long, flat stage”. It was long and often straight, with very little shade but such a joy to ride on my wheels. 

Eventually the small town of Torremejía comes into view with some hills behind it.

I’m struggling to find some positives to say about Torremejíaits as it’s rather characterless. I imagine it is a town suffering from outward migration. There is a school here but I can’t imagine any young person staying here when they have finished their schooling. The streets are generally empty with skips and wheelie bins as central features.

I’m here for the night and will enjoy putting my feet up but will spend the time planning my escape to Mérida, tomorrow’s destination with its many Roman treasures.