This blog is the place to explore and comment on self-balancing wheelchairs in particular the Genny Mobility chair
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Final section of the Camino Francés - León to Santiago de Compostela Map data ©2022 Google |
With a little over 300km to go and only a week to spare, I decided to complete the Camino rather than leaving a small section that would require a fourth visit at a later stage. This meant covering longer sections than I have previously done on my wheels and put a bit of pressure on my journey. In hindsight I should have given myself more time with my focus on where I was rather than making the final destination. For comparison, the general walking guide suggests León to Santiago with 12 stops, I was attempting it in 7.
This third session crossed from the central province of Castilla y León into the most north-western province of Spain called Galicia. Geographically the route starts in the north-west of the high central plateaux before crossing into Galicia with it's hilly green landscapes and temperate, rainy climate.
In lots of ways this was a more challenging route than previous sections, often hilly with many parts unsuited for wheeled pilgrims.
I had researched most of the route using Google Earth and a set of YouTube videos by John Sikora that showed speeded up video of the entire Camino. I was able to establish what was achievable on my wheels and where I needed an alternative route. This would generally be small sections where I would detour around steps or steep rocky terrain but in some places I decided to follow roads rather than an uncertain track that looked difficult for my wheelchair. Where the Camino ran immediately adjacent to a road, I would often be on the tarmac rather than the bumpy pavement for comfort.
One day I encountered another wheelchair pilgrim travelling in a very different style. A couple with her in a manual chair, pulled by her partner harnessed and leashed, pulling from the front - amazing.
Traveling longer distances meant I lost out on some of the community that you build traveling at the more moderate walking pace. This did not isolate me but the casual friendly encounters were generally all new when you have outpaced others. To counter this I made a point of joining others when I could, sharing food, rests and generally hanging out.
| Breather at a water fountain |
| Progress to date: 2021 Saint-Jean-Pier-de-Port to Logroño. June 2022 LogroñoI to León Santiago de Compostela in the west as the ultimate destination Map data ©2022 Google |
| The path ascending to the Meseta leaving Castrojeriz |
| There is much good art on the Camino |
| Santa Iglesia Catedral Basílica Metropolitana de Santa María de Burgos |
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| Camino credentials |
My final day on the Camino and I would complete the biggest stretch to date at 55km. My destination was León where I would bus it back to my VW van garaged in Logroño
| The morning after... |
León is a fantastic vibrant city on a summers day. I arrived to a chess tournament outside the cathedral and the streets were packed
| The older parts of town were filled with cafes spilling onto the streets |
| The former City Hall in the Plaza Mayor |
| Casa Botines - built by Gaudi in 1891 |
| The majestic Cathedral Santa María de Regla de León |
Day 6 of my trip started with the now familiar open agricultural landscape but a slightly shorter journey day. I crossed the halfway point of 395km which in total had taken me 13 days from the start in Saint-Jean-Pier-de-Port to my midway point. I realise this is fast and that the suggested stages in the guide books normally make for a journey of 33 days. Often people take rest days for sightseeing or to recover the feet.
Was I rushing, was I missing out on things, should I slow down?
| Camino midpoint markers |
According to a post on the Camino forum these "midpoint markers, placed at the Ermita del Puente site right after the medieval bridge over the Valderaduey River. The sculptures were recently unveiled and they are absolutely gorgeous. Two huge statues flanking the Camino, one of Alphonse VI the Brave (1065-1109) - Promoter and Protector of the Way of St. James and on the other side Bernardo de Seriedad (Spanish name; Aeseriac: French)), an Abad considered one of the founders of Sahagún"
Passing the midpoint the sky suddenly darkened threatening a storm however after just a few raindrops, it disappeared as quickly as it came
| Street art entering Sahagún |
| A sculptured pilgrim welcomes at the door of the Albergue |
With beautiful morning light the path ascends back to the high Meseta plateaux
The view back to Castrojeriz was stunning and life felt good to be on the Meseta stages.
The Way took me to the villages of Itero de la Vega, Boardilla del Camino, Frómista and several smaller villages. The water in the river valleys looked inviting and was always spanned by bridges that are probably Roman in origin
| Crossing the rio Pisuerga |
| Part of the canal system at Frómista |
| Storks nest on convenient high perches, in this case the top of a grain silo system |
In Carrión de los Condes I stayed at the Hostel of the Filipense Sisters. The accommodation was €22 with lovely beds, proper sheets and hot showers. Unfortunately it was deserted with no pilgrim merriment. I amused myself eating avocado, cheese, ham and crisps with my feet in the river
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A beautiful day on the Camino in gently rolling fields of wheat and barley.
After the small villages of Villalbilla, Tardajos and Rabé de las Calzadas the path ascends. This is the official start of the Meseta, a high flat plateau dipping into occasional valleys with isolated villages often with houses of adobe construction (bricks made of earth straw and other organic materials)
| The ancient and deserted village of Hornillos del Camino |
| Hontanas |
| Ruins of an ancient monastery - San Anton houses a basic Albergue built into the site |