Camino de Santiago 13 - Sahagun to León (Electric wheelchair style)

My final day on the Camino and I would complete the biggest stretch to date at 55km. My destination was León where I would bus it back to my VW van garaged in  Logroño

Leaving Sahagún early I encountered the stragglers from the previous evenings fiesta. The mood was good and I was cheered on my way

The morning after...

Starting through adobe villages and small towns the route was mainly adjacent to tiny roads through Bercianos del Real Camino, Mansilla de Las Mulas and Puente Villarente before entering the urban landscape of León

I ate up the miles on this increasingly urban route before rolling into León. This sort of journey is lovely on my wheels. Walking on hard pavements on a hot afternoon in town is not ideal with a heavy rucksack on your back however for my Genny Mobility wheelchair it is a natural habitat. One difference travelling by wheels is your dependence on pavement ramps. There is always a way up or down a curb however, with block after block and intervening streets the easiest way is not always the marked Camino route. Head down in a map on my mobile phone trying to regain the route I dropped down a large curb that tipped me over the handlebars. Although not particularly painful it is hard on my wheels and tends to get a lot of attention. Kind people want to help and someone upside down in a wheelchair is a magnet. In embarrassment rather than pain I dusted myself off and straighten my handlebars. The urban bits just needed getting through and with broad pavements and renewed attention I quickly reach the historic centre

 

León is a fantastic vibrant city on a summers day. I arrived to a chess tournament outside the cathedral and the streets were packed

The older parts of town were filled with cafes spilling onto the streets

The former City Hall in the Plaza Mayor 

Casa Botines - built by Gaudi in  1891

The majestic Cathedral Santa María de Regla de León

I stayed in the Hostel Quartiere in the heart of the old town which was the most gorgeous hostel. With the assurance of good accommodation sorted I set out to explore León

This was my final evening before returning to Logroño to collect my van and return home. After exploring the city I ate tapas and drunk cold beer on a street side bar and planned my return in October 2022

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Camino de Santiago 12 - Carrión de los Condes to Sahagún (Electric wheelchair style)

Day 6 of my trip started with the now familiar open agricultural landscape but a slightly shorter journey day. I crossed the halfway point of 395km which in total had taken me 13 days from the start in Saint-Jean-Pier-de-Port to my midway point. I realise this is fast and that the suggested stages in the guide books normally make for a journey of 33 days. Often people take rest days for sightseeing or to recover the feet.

Was I rushing, was I missing out on things, should I slow down? 

Camino midpoint markers

According to a post on the Camino forum  these "midpoint markers, placed at the Ermita del Puente site right after the medieval bridge over the Valderaduey River. The sculptures were recently unveiled and they are absolutely gorgeous. Two huge statues flanking the Camino, one of Alphonse VI the Brave (1065-1109) - Promoter and Protector of the Way of St. James and on the other side Bernardo de Seriedad (Spanish name; Aeseriac: French)), an Abad considered one of the founders of Sahagún"

Passing the midpoint the sky suddenly darkened threatening a storm however after just a few raindrops, it disappeared as quickly as it came  

Street art entering Sahagún

Sahagún was in fiesta. There were many road barriers around the town as I entered then I saw the posters. The event was over 4 days and I had arrived on day two. I stayed at the Municipal Albergue built into the upper floor of the 'Iglesia de la Santísima Trinidad' or Church of the Holy Trinity, which also housed the tourist office on the ground floor

A sculptured pilgrim welcomes at the door of the Albergue 

As the evening progressed we had front seat views as a procession of local brass bands accompanied by their entourages, promenaded through the town. Tomorrow night was to be bulls running through the town.

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Camino de Santiago 11 - Castrojeriz to Carrión de los Condes (Electric wheelchair style)

With beautiful morning light the path ascends back to the high Meseta plateaux

With caution to save on battery I got off and pushed my wheels on the steeper parts of this climb. I don't think this was strictly necessary as I'm sure I would have managed without, but the possibility of  running out of charge is always present when you travel by battery. With an electric bike you can always pedal on or even push it with relative ease. With a 2 wheeled, self-balancing wheelchair, without battery power you are dead in the water. 

There is also an issue with the time it takes to recharge my ultra high capacity batteries. With standard 5.6 Ah lithium batteries the charge time of the Segway that powers my Genny wheelchair is about 8 hours. The ultra high capacity batteries I have fitted are reported to to take 16 hours for a full recharge from empty. As I was planning covering 2 stages to Carrión de los Condes (44km) I thought it wise to preserve capacity where I could

The view back to Castrojeriz was stunning and life felt good to be on the Meseta stages.

Up on the Meseta the landscape was the same with high cereal agriculture, mountains to the north and lovely wildflowers along the path.   

The Way took me to the villages of Itero de la Vega, Boardilla del Camino, Frómista and several smaller villages. The water in the river valleys looked inviting and was always spanned by bridges that are probably Roman in origin

Crossing the rio Pisuerga 

Part of the canal system at Frómista

Storks nest on convenient high perches, in this case the top of a grain silo system  

The latter part of this section runs adjacent to a small road. Lots of pilgrims dislike these sections preferring a more remote path. I'm ok with them, soaking up the warmth and just enjoying the afternoon

 

In Carrión de los Condes I stayed at the Hostel of the Filipense Sisters. The accommodation was €22 with lovely beds, proper sheets and hot showers. Unfortunately it was deserted with no pilgrim merriment. I amused myself eating avocado, cheese, ham and crisps with my feet in the river 

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Camino de Santiago 10 - Burgos to Castrojeriz (Electric wheelchair style)

A beautiful day on the Camino in gently rolling fields of wheat and barley.

 After the small villages of  Villalbilla, Tardajos and Rabé de las Calzadas the path ascends. This is the official start of the Meseta, a high flat plateau dipping into occasional valleys with isolated villages often with houses of adobe construction (bricks made of earth straw and other organic materials)

The ancient and deserted village of Hornillos del Camino 

After Hornillos the path ascends again into beautiful postcard fields awash with poppies

Poppies are an emblematic species and dear to me. A plant with an ancient association to humans, poppies are the source of opium that has been used since prehistoric times for medicine and pleasure. The connection with the first world war where it's seed's capacity to germinate and flower in disturbed soils saw it colonising in landscapes torn apart by war. If those battlefields had looked anything like the riot of colour and beauty of the Camino poppies you can imagine hope entering the world again    

Hontanas

This was to be be along day where I covered 40.4km. I continued beyond San Anton where a small road cuts right through an archway of the now ruined monastery. There was an option to stay in a tiny albergue built into these ruins but didn't provide electricity which I'm dependant on to charge my wheels for the next days travel 

 

Ruins of an ancient monastery - San Anton houses a basic Albergue built into the site

My destination for the night was the small town of Castrojeriz built into the hillside beneath a ruined castle. I stayed in the Rosalia Pilgrim Hostal that had good reviews and deserved them. The Rosalia turned out to be a 16th century hostel built over several floors with a covered courtyard where I ate the Pilgrims menu.

Others staying at the hostel made the the stiff walk up to the castle ruins. I washed and dried my cloths and researched the next days route

Entry to this Albergue was via a series of steps at the back door which I was helped through by the proprietor. Minor obstacles like this were ever present on the Camino. I do not know how a pilgrim completely dependant on their wheelchair would manage unsupported but for me there were always people to help 

 

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Camino de Santiago 9 - Villambistia to Burgos (Electric wheelchair style)

The route today left the big open agricultural landscapes and climbed into the wooded hills to a height of 1120m. The terrain was a mix of planted conifers and local indigenous oak woodland mainly on clay or stoney soils. 

A constant climb into woodlands

Conifer plantation

The straight lines of a conifer plantation make for an alien environment where the heavy shade stops everything but hardy grasses and bracken from growing. I was to discover that within 2 weeks of crossing this section,  the path had been closed due to raging wild fires in the area

At higher altitudes remnants of the natural upland heath remained in glades. Heather and rock roses bloomed along with the odd orchid. There is a simple monument marking the site of a shallow grave from Spain's the civil war. Its easy to forget that until relatively recently Spain as a large and diverse nation had a very difficult past

 

San Juan de Ortega

The path drops down to San Juan de Ortega where there is an Albergue and small café that was doing good business. I stopped for a homely lunch with a small coincidental meeting of English pilgrims.

After another short stretch of woodland the path descends into the small villages of Ages and Atapuerca before rising again into a section of path with extremely difficult rocky terrain. Genny can handle most moderately rocky paths but very steep slopes, deep eroded gullies and places where rocks will snag the underside are not easily passable. I have developed a technique of putting Genny into slow mode, depressing the seat whilst guiding from the rear operates with full power as though there is a passenger riding it. This requires lots of practice and good control but this mode can sometimes get you over obstacles that are otherwise impassable

Most of this terrain was negotiable threading between the stones however I was assisted in a few places by helpful cyclists who had resorted to pushing their mountain bikes to the summit. The Cruz de Matagrande sits at altitude 1050m. The following photograph from my sister taken on a bleaker day shows the cross at the summit and the difficult rocky path 

A long ride down the other side leads through woods and fields eventually reaching the suburbs to Burgos.

Burgos is a delightful city. A blend of the ancient alongside wide treelined streets. The city is built on the river 'Rio Arlanzón' and Burgos is a UNESCO world heritage site named as a 'City of Gastronomy'. Ironically it was difficult finding somewhere to eat at a time that suited pilgrims. I risk generalising when I say that the Spanish seem to do most things late. Mornings seem to not happen till 9 ish lunch is 14:00 or 15:00 and people seem to not eat their evening meal at about 22:00 I guess being on the western end of the continent, the sun rises and sets later than the rest of Europe. The smaller villages servicing the Camino are open for coffee if nothing else so maybe its the Camino running in a different time zone altogether..

In Burgos I stayed in the Municipal Albergue de peregrinos Casa del Cubo, a big hostel sleeping 150 over several floors. This had excellent disabled facilities including single story beds as opposed to the more frequent bunks. 

Gothic Cathedral of Saint Mary of Burgos

14th-century city gate, Arco de Santa María

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Camino de Santiago 8 - Azofra to Villambistia (Electric wheelchair style)

 

Today was an easy day of good paths through open fields of mainly mixed cereals. These crops were accompanied by the cheery red poppies that dominated the verges along with the spiky teasels and odd pyramidal orchids

My wheels were proving more than capable for this journey. With the forward and backward movement of the Genny controlled by the your bodies position, distributing the weight and carrying essentials and supplies in a rucksack hooked on the back affects your centre of balance. My load is probably only about 7kg in a 26ltr rucksack with a sleeping bag hanging off the bottom, however I need to adjust the settings my move my seating position forward to counter the weight at the back

Beautiful cool Cathedral at Santo Domingo de la Calzada

The small towns of Ciruena, Santo Domingo de La Calzada, Granon, Viloria de la Rioja, Vilamayor del Rio and Belorado each have their own charm

I was travelling faster then most pilgrims on my wheels. These long easy sections make cruising comfortable and fast. I had started to cover about 40km a day which is a stretch for those on foot who would more commonly cover 20 - 30km a day. I did however meet several young men who claimed to had walked up to 75km in a day  

Many of the taller buildings have nesting cranes on their roofs

I stayed the night in a the tiny municipal Albergue San Roque in Villambistia. This was a lovely stop with friendly staff however I discovered in the morning that my wheelchair had been unplugged at some point in the night leaving me with less than full charge for the day ahead. The general etiquette on the Camino is lights out by 22:00 and vacate the place by 8:00 in the morning. Plugging my wheels back in and hanging about didn't go down to well. I wasn't actually thrown out but I only managed to stay till 8:30 before feeling less than welcome and left hoping I wouldn't run out of steam on the day ahead

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Camino de Santiago 7 - Logroño to Azofra (Electric wheelchair style)

Four days before leaving for the second week on the Camino, the retractable support legs on my Genny Mobility wheelchair stopped working and stuck down. I would normally attempt this sort of repair myself but with so little time and requiring parts I had no option but to make a trip to the Genny Mobility factory in Switzerland. Getting this sorted meant a 1800 mile drive from St Malo in Brittany, France to Switzerland, before driving onwards to Logroño, Spain in my VW van to commence where I left off last October

Overall my wheels have been fantastically reliable with over 8000 miles on the clock in 6 years of operation. Apart from a few relatively minor issues, most of which were down to the Segway core power unit, Genny has been just great for a wheelchair that I ask so much of

Genny Mobility headquarters are based in Sant'Antonino in the southern, Italian speaking part of Switzerland. It is just up the road from the beautiful Lake Maggiore, where clear warm water is surrounded by tall mountains. Its about 40km west of Lake Como in Italy. After a long drive Genny Mobility were able to make the repairs which were down to the linear actuator which is a device a bit like a hydraulic ram you could see on a digger arm, however powered by 12 volts through a gear drive. Taking it all to pieces myself later I was able to see it was not down to faulty gears but a crack in part of the plastic moulded frame. This was not feasibly repairable without parts. I took the opportunity to have a full service whilst in the workshop   

Lake Maggiore borders both Switzerland and Italy

Logroño:

After a mad onward drive from Switzerland into Italy, the Mediterranean coast of France and into northern Spain I arrived in Logroño early evening giving me opportunity to visit the city, capital of La Rioja region. As with many cities and larger towns, Logroño has a beautiful historic centre complete with the Cathedral of Santa María de la Redonda

Unfortunately most Spanish Cathedrals seem to be accessed by flights of steps
 with generally poor disabled access 

  

Fantastic street art at a roundabout in Logroño   

With my van securely garaged, I commenced my second week on the Camino with a late 10 o'clock morning start in good weather. Anxious but excited I set off on my wheels with my small rucksack and sleeping bag hanging off the back. Because of the late start I had booked accommodation in Azofra 34km away

Pilgrims decorate the path adjacent to the road with home made crosses

The urban parts of of the Camino are generally less memorable excepting the historic town centres. Exiting Logroño however was through a series of lovely shaded green parks, before crossing a busy road and past a reservoir. the early route was part following the road and part in mixed agricultural land of cereals and vines

Following the yellow arrows of the Camino I passed the small town of Navarrete built on a hill and Nájera

Where a footbridge with steps crossed a stream leaving Nájera I was forced to find an alternative route and found a shallow section where I could wade my wheels without issue

Stream crossings need to be carefully negotiated with 22Ah of lithium batteries to consider
 

Many path edges and smaller fields in June were awash with poppies and other wild flowers

Lots of the building stone seemed to be pebbles shaped by water despite there being little
obvious water in the surrounding areas

I had made the decision on this section to stay in the smaller towns and villages where possible. I find the villages easier to navigate, they are simpler to shop and eat with a wheelchair but I was also considered the impact Covid over the last couple of years. With increasing urbanisation in the world these villages are probably only here because of the Camino. In Azofra I stayed in the Municipal Albergue which was a small and friendly hostel with a small courtyard water feature. With feet in the cool water I engaged with Camino life meeting Italians and Americans I would encounter again over the next days. How lovely to be back

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